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Fixed rope route

Via ferrata Oliva Detassis, Brenta Dolomites

Fixed rope route · Brenta Group
Responsible for this content
APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena Verified partner 
  • Punto più alto della via ferrata Oliva Detassis
    / Punto più alto della via ferrata Oliva Detassis
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Scala verticale sulla via ferrata O. Detassis
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Passaggio lungo la via ferrata Oliva Detassis
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Panoramica sulla vedretta dei Brentei dalla via ferrata O. Detassis
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Sui ghiaioni alla base della Via ferrata O. Detassis, sullo sfondo Bocchetta Bassa dei Massodi
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Camminando sui ghiaioni alla base della ferrata O. Detassis
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
m 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km

Highly exposed route of intermediate difficulty, often used as the starting or ending section of the Bocchette Alte itinerary. Calls for physical fitness and a head for heights.

difficult
2.7 km
2:30 h
45 m
728 m

The Oliva Detassis via ferrata takes you from Bocchetta Bassa dei Massodi to the Brentei hanging glacier and runs beneath the west ridge of Cima Molveno. Well equipped with cables and long vertical ladders, it climbs over a wall of rock about a hundred meters tall up cliff faces and along narrow ledges that require athletic skill and endurance.

Running above the former Brenta hanging glacier, the trail has been dedicated to Oliva Detassis by her sons, Bruno, Giordano and Catullo Detassis. The actual via ferrata is an outing of between 2 to 3 hours, but you will also need to take account of the time it takes for the round trip to and from the trail itself (which adds another 4-6 hours).

Author’s recommendation

The lengthy series of rungs up exposed, vertical cliff faces make this itinerary physically challenging. Surface can be wet even in late summer.
Profile picture of Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA
Author
Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA
Updated: October 14, 2019

Difficulty
D/E difficult
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
2848 m
Lowest point
2160 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition / cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Outlets: none. This trail is not recommended for anyone with a fear of heights due to the exposure and steepness of certain sections.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips, hints and links

www.guidealpinecampiglio.it

www.mountainfriends.it

www.dolomitibrenta.it/RifugioBrentei

www.rifugioalimonta.it

 

Start

Bocchetta Bassa dei Massodi (2848 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.174380, 10.899287
DMS
46°10'27.8"N 10°53'57.4"E
UTM
32T 646602 5115176
w3w 
///pushing.fading.rewired

Destination

Rifugio Maria & Alberto ai Brentei

Turn-by-turn directions

From Spallone dei Massodi, head down along ledges and chimneys using the cords and handholds provided until you reach Bocca Bassa dei Massodi, a section of trail dedicated to Mario Chioggiola.

At Bocca Bassa dei Massodi, you will find a fork in the trail. The section of via ferrata dedicated to Umberto Quintavalle heads down to the left and will take you to the shoulder of Cima Molveno (2,915m / 9,564 ft) and on to the Sfulmini hanging glacier and Rifugio Alimonta (2,580m / 8,465 ft). Down to the right, on the other hand, you will follow the Oliva Detassis via ferrata no. O396, which takes you to the Brentei hanging glacier.

This via ferrata features 8 series of iron rungs, including the most vertical and most exposed of the group, which together connect the various ledges and enable you to descend roughly 100 meters (330 ft) very quickly. The trail is dedicated to Oliva Detassis, the mother of Bruno, Catullo and Giordano Detassis, who dedicated this trail to their mother and to all the mothers of mountaineers, who are forced to share their children’s love with the mountains.

From the Brentei hanging glacier, you can get to Rifugio Alimonta (2,580m / 8,465 ft) by heading around Cima Molveno and Due Gemelli, or you can head down to Rifugio Brentei (2,182m / 7,159 ft).

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Shuttle bus service (in summer, from late June to early September) from Madonna di Campiglio (Piazza Brenta Alta) to Vallesinella. Check schedule and prices online or ask for the booklet from the tourist office at Via Pradalago 4.

You may also check the bus schedule of Trentino Trasporti www.ttesercizio.it.

Getting there

Access from Via delle Bocchette Alte to Bocchetta Bassa dei Massodi, starting from Bocca del Tuckett or from Rifugio Alimonta.

From Bocca dei Massodi, return to Rifugio Alimonta by way of the Bocchette Alte via ferrata. Add another 3-4 hours for the return to Vallesinella.

From Rifugio Brentei to Bocchetta dei Brentei, climbing up from Vallesinella (2-3 hour hike).

Parking

Ample paid parking is available in Vallesinella, although access is restricted (check summer schedule and pricing online).

Coordinates

DD
46.174380, 10.899287
DMS
46°10'27.8"N 10°53'57.4"E
UTM
32T 646602 5115176
w3w 
///pushing.fading.rewired
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

  • "La via delle Bocchette e le vie ferrate. Dolomiti di Brenta", by Pio Ferrari (Italian edition published by Rendena)
  • "La Via delle Bocchette e le Ferrate del Brenta", by Roberto Ciri (Italian edition published by Idea Montagna)

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Equipment needed:   

  • technical mountain clothing   
  • hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole   
  • via ferrata gear   
  • harness   
  • helmet   
  • gloves   
  • pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)   
  • a length of rope (recommended)

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Reviews

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David Sturm 
September 19, 2019 · Community
Der Klettersteig Olivia Detassis ist ab 20.09.2019 wegen Instandhaltungsarbeiten gesperrt.
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Photos from others


Difficulty
D/E difficult
Distance
2.7 km
Duration
2:30h
Ascent
45 m
Descent
728 m
Point-to-point Scenic Refreshment stops available Geological highlights classic via ferrata sport via ferrata

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