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Fixed rope route

Via ferrata Felice Spellini, Brenta Dolomites

Fixed rope route · Brenta Group
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APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena Verified partner 
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • /
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • /
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • /
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • /
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • /
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
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    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
m 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 3,5 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km

A relatively unfrequented, highly challenging via ferrata along exposed sections and cliff faces beneath Cima degli Armi. Quick return to Rifugio Pedrotti and Rifugio Alimonta from Bocchette Centrali.

moderate
3.7 km
2:00 h
672 m
540 m

The via ferrata Felice Spellini runs along the southern spur of Cima degli Armi along vertical cliff faces and ladders, which call for a good head for heights and strong arms. Four challenging ladders and 400m (1,312 ft) of cable connect Valle dei Massodi (from the Moveno side) to the hanging glacier Vedretta degli Armi (on the Madonna di Campiglio side) and on to Rifugio Pedrotti and Rifugio Alimonta for a quick return to the lodges for those who are arriving from the Bocchette Centrali route.

Although not particularly difficult, the hanging glacier may require the use of pickaxes and crampons. The access trail starts from the Osvaldo Orsi trail near the quiet, untamed Busa degli Sfulmini, from where there is a great view of the spectacular Campanile Basso and Cima Brenta Alta.

Author’s recommendation

The Spellini route is a quick approach to Bocca degli Armi, creating a circuit that starts and finishes at Rifugio Pedrotti by way of Bocchette Centrali.

Difficulty
C moderate
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
2840 m
Lowest point
2293 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition / cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Outlets: none. Exposed, vertical itinerary for expert mountaineers in good physical shape. To be done only when weather conditions are ideal.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips, hints and links

www.guidealpinecampiglio.it

www.mountainfriends.it

www.rifugiotosapedrotti.it

www.rifugioalimonta.it

 

Start

Rifugio Tosa & Pedrotti (2450 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.154219, 10.898766
DMS
46°09'15.2"N 10°53'55.6"E
UTM
32T 646615 5112935
w3w 
///deceives.opulence.retriever

Destination

Rifugio Alimonta

Turn-by-turn directions

This via ferrata, which connects Bocca degli Armi with Busa degli Sfulmini, was inaugurated in 2010 and is dedicated to Felice Spellini, an alpine guide and first responder from Molveno, who owned and managed Rifugio Croz dell’Altissimo for years.

This route enables people doing the Bocchette Centrali route from Rifugio Tosa & Pedrotti to significantly reduce the time it takes to get back to the lodge.

From Bocca degli Armi (2,747m / 9,012 ft), use the cables and ladders to descend to Busa degli Sfulmini (2,380m / 7,808 ft). From here, follow the Osvaldo Orsi trail (no. O303) to the south to Rifugio Tosa & Pedrotti.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Shuttle bus service (in summer, from late June to early September) from Madonna di Campiglio (Piazza Brenta Alta) to Vallesinella. Check schedule and prices online or ask for the booklet from the tourist office at Via Pradalago 4.

You may also check the bus schedule of Trentino Trasporti www.ttesercizio.it.

Getting there

From Madonna di Campiglio to Rifugio Tosa & Pedrotti:

from the southern part of Campiglio, take Vallesinella to the parking area. From here, take trail O317 to Rifugio Casinei (1,850m / 6,070 ft), then trail O318 to Rifugio Brentei (2,182m / 7,159 ft), and then trail O318A to Rifugio Tosa & Pedrotti (in 3.5 hours) via Bocchetta di Brenta (at 2,553m / 8,376 ft).

Normally you will want to book the day before taking on the via ferrata. It is also possible to do the route in the opposite direction by starting from Rifugio Alimonta, which can be reached on foot from Vallesinella in about 3-4 hours.

Parking

Ample paid parking is available in Vallesinella, although access is restricted (check summer schedule and pricing online).

Coordinates

DD
46.154219, 10.898766
DMS
46°09'15.2"N 10°53'55.6"E
UTM
32T 646615 5112935
w3w 
///deceives.opulence.retriever
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

  • "La via delle Bocchette e le vie ferrate. Dolomiti di Brenta", by Pio Ferrari (Italian edition published by Rendena)
  • "La Via delle Bocchette e le Ferrate del Brenta", by Roberto Ciri (Italian edition published by Idea Montagna)

Book recommendations for this region:

show more

Recommended maps for this region:

show more

Equipment

Equipment needed:   

  • technical mountain clothing   
  • hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole   
  • via ferrata gear   
  • harness   
  • helmet   
  • gloves   
  • pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)   
  • a length of rope (recommended)

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Difficulty
C moderate
Distance
3.7 km
Duration
2:00h
Ascent
672 m
Descent
540 m
Scenic Geological highlights Insider tip sport via ferrata

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