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Fixed rope route

Via Ferrata Ettore Castiglioni, Brenta Dolomites

Fixed rope route · Brenta Group
Responsible for this content
APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena Verified partner 
  • Spettacolare ponticello lungo la Via Ferrata Castiglioni
    / Spettacolare ponticello lungo la Via Ferrata Castiglioni
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Scala lungo la Via Ferrata Castiglioni
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Bocca dei Due Denti dove sale Via Ferrata Ettore Castiglioni
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Traversata a metà della via Ferrata Castiglioni
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Vista sulla parte alta della Val d'Ambiez e il Rifugio Agostini
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Scala metallica lungo la Via Ferrata Castiglioni
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Dalla Bocca dei Due Denti verso il Rifugio XII Apostoli
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Alpinisti lungo la Via Ferrata Castiglioni
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Scala lungo la Via Ferrata Castiglioni
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Scala lungo la Via Ferrata Castiglioni
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Chiesetta nella roccia al Rifugio XII Apostoli
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Lago di Valagola sulla strada del rientro dai XII Apostoli
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
m 2900 2800 2700 2600 2500 2400 2300 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km

A great classic of the Brenta Dolomites, this via ferrata runs along well-equipped vertical cliff faces from Rifugio Agostini to Rifugio XII Apostoli and features some amazing views of Val d’Ambiez.

difficult
3 km
3:00 h
396 m
307 m

Opened in the 1930s by the great Italian mountaineer Ettore Castiglioni, this via ferrata follows the route he first climbed, but enables you to follow in his footsteps without the difficulty of actual rock climbing. Running beneath Bocchetta dei Due Denti, the trail climbs vertically for 200 meters (655 ft) up the face of Cima Susat, where the views over Val d'Ambiez are stunning. Although vertical, exposed and challenging enough on its own, it is not to be underestimated especially if done together with Sentiero dell'Ideale (in one of the most traditional of the Brenta circuits). It is a complex mountaineering itinerary that requires experience and good physical fitness.

The via ferrata itself takes about 2-3 hours, but you will need to take account of the return trip to and from the start point (another 4-6 hours), which needs to be planned out properly. Access to Val d’Ambiez and Rifugio Cacciatore is regulated (limited parking and jeep service on request), as is the option of climbing to Malga Bandalors if starting out from Rifugio XII Apostoli.

Author’s recommendation

We recommend crossing from Rifugio Agostini to Rifugio XII Apostoli in order to better handle the technical difficulties of the climb.
Profile picture of Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA
Author
Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA
Updated: August 22, 2018

Difficulty
E difficult
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
2782 m
Lowest point
2386 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition / cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Outlets: none. The route features exposed, vertical sections that are well equipped. Due to its exposure, a good head for heights is recommended, particularly on the descent.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips, hints and links

www.guidealpinecampiglio.it

www.mountainfriends.it

www.rifugiocacciatore.it

www.rifugioagostini.com

www.rifugiododiciapostoli.com

 

Start

Rifugio Agostini (2385 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.142593, 10.869515
DMS
46°08'33.3"N 10°52'10.3"E
UTM
32T 644387 5111589
w3w 
///skincare.continental.gerbil

Destination

Rifugio XII Apostoli

Turn-by-turn directions

Climbing from Rifugio Agostini (2,405m / 7,890 ft) towards Cima d’Agola, in just a few minutes you will find a plaque in the rock face marking the start of the via ferrata. Metal cables and rungs will help you get past an initial outcropping of rock to a chimney full of rocks (where you will need to be very wary of falling rocks). Using the other ladders, you will head up to Bocca dei Due Denti (2,852m / 9,357 ft). From here, head down an equipped rocky section to the Prato Fiorito hanging glacier, followed by a series of scree slopes down to Rifugio XII Apostoli.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

From San Lorenzo in Banale: 18 minutes by jeep (private service, contact the San Lorenzo in Banale tourist association).

You may also check the bus schedule of Trentino Trasporti www.ttesercizio.it.

Getting there

To get to San Lorenzo:

35 km from Trento via SS45BIS. From the A22 Modena-Brennero motorway, take the Trenta Sud exit. From here, continue on to Rifugio Cacciatore in Val d'Ambiez either on foot (2 hrs and 20 min.), by bike (80 min.), or by jeep (18 min.).

To Pinzolo:

- A4 Milan-Venice motorway, take the Brescia Est exit at km 130. Average travel time from exit (by car): 2 hours and 30 minutes.

- A22 Modena-Brennero motorway, take the Rovereto Sud exit at km 92 (1 hour and 40 minutes), or the Trento Sud exit at km 73 (1 hour and 30 minutes), or the S. Michele all’Adige exit at km 78 (1 hour).

From Pinzolo to Rifugio XII Apostoli.

Parking

From San Lorenzo in Banale to Rifugio Cacciatore:

parking limited in Val d'Ambiez (for info during tourist season: San Lorenzo tourist association).

 

From Pinzolo to Rifugio XII Apostoli:

1. From the top of the Prà Rodont cable lift or taking the lift (in this case, there is ample parking free of charge in Pinzolo at the start of the cable lift).

2. By car to Prà Rodont before 8:30 AM, when the lift opens (parking free of charge at the arrival of the cable lift).

 

From Giustino to Rifugio XII Apostoli:

parking free of charge but subject to authorization at Malga Bandalors (permits to be requested from the City of Giustino).- From S. Antonio di Mavignola to Rifugio XII Apostoli: ample parking free of charge in Val Brenta.

Coordinates

DD
46.142593, 10.869515
DMS
46°08'33.3"N 10°52'10.3"E
UTM
32T 644387 5111589
w3w 
///skincare.continental.gerbil
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

  • "La via delle Bocchette e le vie ferrate. Dolomiti di Brenta", by Pio Ferrari (Italian edition published by Rendena)
  • "La Via delle Bocchette e le Ferrate del Brenta", by Roberto Ciri (Italian edition published by Idea Montagna)

Book recommendations for this region:

show more

Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Equipment needed:   

  • technical mountain clothing   
  • hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole   
  • via ferrata gear   
  • harness   
  • helmet   
  • gloves   
  • pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)   
  • a length of rope (recommended)

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Difficulty
E difficult
Distance
3 km
Duration
3:00h
Ascent
396 m
Descent
307 m
Point-to-point Scenic Refreshment stops available Geological highlights Insider tip classic via ferrata

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