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Fitness
Fixed rope route

Via Ferrata Alpinistica Livio Brentari, Brenta Dolomites

Fixed rope route · Brenta Group
Responsible for this content
APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena Verified partner 
  • Via ferrata Livio Brentari. Sullo sfondo Denti d'Ambiez.
    / Via ferrata Livio Brentari. Sullo sfondo Denti d'Ambiez.
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Scala lungo la Via Ferrata Brentari
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Scala lungo la Via Ferrata Brentari
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Veduta dal Brentari
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
m 3100 3000 2900 2800 2700 2600 2500 2400 2300 4 3 2 1 km

A panoramic mountaineering via ferrata, sections of which are highly exposed. The route connects Rifugio Agostini to Rifugio Tosa Pedrotti along ledges and hanging glaciers beneath Cima Tosa.

moderate
4.5 km
3:30 h
670 m
602 m

A panoramic mountaineering via ferrata with exposed sections in the area of Cima Tosa. Inaugurated in 1950, the route connects Rifugio Pedrotti with Rifugio Agostini along a stunning ledge that is narrow and highly exposed in places. It runs beneath Cima Garbari and then descends along a vertical cliff face for about a hundred meters with the help of iron cables, ladders, and rungs.

Although not particularly difficult, the route does require physical fitness and experience with via ferratas. The possible presence of snow and ice near the d’Ambiez hanging glacier and the former Tosa hanging glacier may require crampons and pickaxes, which will make the trail more challenging.

The thrilling landscapes include Cima d’Ambiez, the Tosa spires, Campanile Steck, Punta dell’Ideale, Cima Tosa, Cima Margherita, Brenta Bassa, and Campanil Alto. See if you can identify them all! The actual via ferrata is an outing of between 3 to 4 hours, but you will also need to take account of the time it takes for the round trip to and from the trail itself (which adds another 6-8 hours).

Author’s recommendation

A visit to the glacial grotto Silvia, just 15 minutes from the lodge, is highly recommended. The floor of the cave is covered in layers of fossil ice dating back thousands of years. Stalactites and stalagmites of ice in early summer enhance the allure of the Silvia grotto.
Profile picture of Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA
Author
Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA
Updated: August 16, 2018

Difficulty
C/D moderate
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
2883 m
Lowest point
2386 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition / cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Outlets: none. The sections at the d’Ambiez and now extinct Tosa hanging glaciers may require the use of pickaxes and crampons due to the presence of snow and ice.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips, hints and links

www.guidealpinecampiglio.it

www.mountainfriends.it

www.rifugiotosapedrotti.it

www.rifugioagostini.com

 

Start

Rifugio Pedrotti (2385 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.142593, 10.869515
DMS
46°08'33.3"N 10°52'10.3"E
UTM
32T 644387 5111589
w3w 
///skincare.continental.gerbil

Destination

Rifugio Agostini

Turn-by-turn directions

From Rifugio Tosa & Pedrotti (2,491m / 8,173 ft), follow trail O358 to the south along the base of Cima Brenta Bassa, Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa. Past the fork for the Palmieri trail, climb up to Sella della Tosa (2,872m / 9,423 ft), where the via ferrata begins and you can enjoy the amazing view.

To the northeast, you can see the central section of the Brenta group, which includes Campanile Basso, Campanile Alto, and Brenta Alta, and to the southeast there is Val d'Ambiez. To the right, in the snowy basin before Sella della Tosa, you can see the chimney of the standard route up to Cima Tosa (UIAA grade II, YDS 5.3 – 3,161m / 10,371 ft).

The via ferrata heads down with iron cables, ladders and rungs to the d’Ambiez hanging glacier. Cross this small glacier (pickaxe and crampons are recommended and often necessary) and continue on to Rifugio Silvio Agostini in Val d'Ambiez (2,405m / 7,890 ft).

From the d’Ambiez hanging glacier, instead of heading down to Rifugio Agostini, you may want to continue along the via ferrata Ideale (no. O304) to Rifugio XII Apostoli.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

To get to Rifugio Pedrotti:

Up from Vallesinella: shuttle bus service (in summer, from late June to early September) from Madonna di Campiglio (Piazza Brenta Alta) to Vallesinella. Check schedule and prices online.

To get to Rifugio Agostini:

Jeep taxi service: from San Lorenzo or directly from the parking area, you can take advantage of the jeep taxi service (a private service; contact the San Lorenzo in Banale tourist association) that will take you to Rifugio al Cacciatore (1,820m / 5,971 ft) in about 25 minutes. From here, continue on foot along the leisurely trail no. 325 for 1.5 hours to Rifugio S. Agostini at an altitude of 2,410 meters (7,907 ft).

 

You may also check the bus schedule of Trentino Trasporti at www.ttesercizio.it.

Getting there

From Madonna di Campiglio to Rifugio Tosa:

from the southern part of Campiglio, take Vallesinella to the parking area. From here, take trail O317 to Rifugio Casinei (1,850m / 6,070 ft), then trail O318 to Rifugio Brentei (2,182m / 7,159 ft), and then trail O318A to Rifugio Pedrotti (in 3.5 hours) via Bocchetta di Brenta (at 2,553m / 8,376 ft).

 

From San Lorenzo in Banale to Rifugio Agostini:

take the paved road for 3 km to the parking area (at Bar Ristorante Dolomiti in Baesa), then follow trail no. 325 on foot along a mule track and then a trail, and in about 4 hours you will reach the lodge.A jeep taxi service is available to take you to Rifugio al Cacciatore, after which it is just a 1h 20’ hike.

Parking

From Madonna di Campiglio to Rifugio Tosa Pedrotti: ample paid parking in Vallesinella, although access is restricted (check summer schedule and pricing online).

From San Lorenzo in Banale to Rifugio Cacciatore and Rifugio Agostini: limited parking available in Val d'Ambiez (for info during tourist season: San Lorenzo tourist association).

Coordinates

DD
46.142593, 10.869515
DMS
46°08'33.3"N 10°52'10.3"E
UTM
32T 644387 5111589
w3w 
///skincare.continental.gerbil
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

  • "La via delle Bocchette e le vie ferrate. Dolomiti di Brenta", by Pio Ferrari (Italian edition published by Rendena)
  • "La Via delle Bocchette e le Ferrate del Brenta", by Roberto Ciri (Italian edition published by Idea Montagna)

Book recommendations for this region:

show more

Recommended maps for this region:

show more

Equipment

Equipment needed:   

  • technical mountain clothing   
  • hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole   
  • via ferrata gear   
  • harness   
  • helmet   
  • gloves   
  • pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)   
  • a length of rope (recommended)

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Difficulty
C/D moderate
Distance
4.5 km
Duration
3:30h
Ascent
670 m
Descent
602 m
Scenic Geological highlights classic via ferrata

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