Choose a language
Community
Share
Bookmark
Plan a route here Copy route
Fitness
Fixed rope route

Bocchette Alte via ferrata, Brenta Dolomites

· 1 review · Fixed rope route · Brenta Group
Responsible for this content
APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena Verified partner 
  • "Scala degli amici" lungo le Bocchette Alte
    / "Scala degli amici" lungo le Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Passaggio in cresta lungo le Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Scorcio sul lago di Molveno dalle Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Passaggio aereo lungo le Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Alpinisti su un passaggio aereo lungo le Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / In cima alla "Scala degli Amici" lungo le Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Lago di Molveno dalle Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Passaggio aereo sulle Val Perse
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Panorama sulla Paganella dalle Bocchtte Alte
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Cordini metallici lungo le cenge delle Bocchette Centrali. In lontananza il lago di Molveno.
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Bocchetta Bassa dei Massodi
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Verso la Bocchetta Bassa dei Massodi
    Photo: Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
m 3200 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 5 4 3 2 1 km

One of the most spectacular and challenging of the traditional Brenta Dolomites via ferratas. A route along ledges and mountain ridges at an altitude of 3,000m (9,850 ft) for expert mountaineers in good physical shape.

difficult
5.6 km
6:00 h
1174 m
829 m

The Bocchette Alte via ferrata is a challenging, greatly rewarding trail. Its length, technical difficulty, exposure, and other mountaineering characteristics make it suited only to mountaineers with experience on vertical climbs who are in good physical shape and have a good head for heights.This challenging trail is equipped with cables and iron rungs and runs along narrow ledges and other exposed sections through the rocky heart of the Brenta range. Its breathtaking landscapes are of near indescribable beauty.

The actual via ferrata is an outing of between 6 to 8 hours, but you will also need to take account of the time it takes for the round trip to and from the trail itself (which adds another 4-6 hours). From Bocca dei Massodi, you can follow the via ferrata Oliva Detassis O396, which is often done together with the Bocchette Alte. The itinerary may also be done in the opposite direction from Rifugio Alimonta to Bocca del Tuckett, a route to be done during stable weather conditions and preferably after the ice has melted.

Author’s recommendation

ATTENTION: temporary closure from 15 June for the renewal and technical adjustment of the fixed equipment.

 

There may be snow and ice along certain sections early in the season. You will also want to check when the lodges are open and spread your trip out over two days.

Profile picture of Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA
Author
Apt Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena FA
Updated: August 02, 2020

Difficulty
E difficult
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
2913 m
Lowest point
2240 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition / cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Include pickaxes and crampons in your gear if the trail is expected to still be snowy or icy. Start out early and take liquids.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips, hints and links

www.guidealpinecampiglio.it

www.mountainfriends.it

www.rifugioalimonta.it

www.rifugio-tuckett.it

www.dolomitibrenta.it/Rifugio Brentei

Start

Rifugio Tuckett/Bocca del Tuckett (2239 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.191941, 10.882380
DMS
46°11'31.0"N 10°52'56.6"E
UTM
32T 645251 5117096
w3w 
///theoretical.agriculture.sundress

Destination

Rifugio Alimonta

Turn-by-turn directions

From Rifugio Tuckett & Sella (2,272m / 7,455 ft), take trail no. 0303 past the fork with the via ferratas O305/b and O315 and on to the Brenta Inferiore hanging glacier, which you will head up until you reach Bocca di Tuckett (2,647m / 8,685 ft). To climb the glacier, the use of a pickaxe and crampons is recommended and often necessary. The via ferrata Benini heads up the left side of the col, and looking up along Cima Sella you can see the cables and rungs. Bocchette Alte starts on the opposite side of the col. Using your via ferrata set, head up along the north ridge of Cima Brenta until you reach the rocky ledge that cuts across the east face of the mountain. This initial section of the via ferrata has been dedicated to Enrico Pedrotti.

You will then continue along the ledge dedicated to Enrico Garbari, and after a few minutes you will reach the highest point of the Via delle Bocchette itinerary at 3,000 meters (9,842 ft). Looking down to the east, you can see Lake Molveno, and the valleys below will often be blanketed in fog as the sun shines over the Bocchette Alte trail. Here is where the standard route up to Cima Brenta begins (UIAA grade II-III, YDS 5.3-5.4; 3,150m / 10,335 ft). Continue along the ridge and the section dedicated to Dorotea Foresti, which cuts across the south face of Cima Brenta and crosses a fissure in which there is often still snow even in late summer, until you reach the shoulder of Cima Brenta.

Continue across this stunning, exposed shoulder, at the end of which you will head down along a route with rungs, steps and cables to the longest series of rungs of the entire Via delle Bocchette itinerary. This section has 75 rungs, is 30 meters (98 ft) long, and is known as Scala degli Amici (Ladder of Friendship) because the money to construct it was raised by a group of friends of the Detassis brothers from Trento. This will take you to Spallone dei Massodi at an altitude of 2,999 meters (9,839 ft), which is one of the most panoramic spots anywhere in the Brenta group.

To the east, you can see lake Molveno and, to the south, Crozzon di Brenta and Cima Tosa, which is the tallest of the group. On a particularly clear day, you can even see a bit of Lake Garda through the mountains. To the west, you can see the entire Brenta valley as well as the Adamello-Presanella group. From Spallone dei Massodi, head down along ledges and chimneys using the cables and rungs provided until you reach Bocca Bassa dei Massodi, a section of trail dedicated to Mario Chioggiola.

At Bocca Bassa dei Massodi, you will find a fork in the trail. The section of via ferrata dedicated to Umberto Quintavalle heads down to the left and will take you to the shoulder of Cima Molveno (2,915m / 9,564 ft) and on to the Sfulmini hanging glacier and Rifugio Alimonta (2,580m / 8,465 ft). Down to the right, on the other hand, you will follow the Oliva Detassis via ferrata no. O396, which takes you to the Brentei glacier.

This via ferrata features 8 series of iron rungs, including the most vertical and most exposed of the group, which together connect the various ledges and enable you to descend roughly 100 meters (330 ft) very quickly. The trail is dedicated to Oliva Detassis, the mother of Bruno, Catullo and Giordano Detassis, who dedicated this trail to their mother and to all the mothers of mountaineers, who are forced to share their children’s love with the mountains. From the Brentei hanging glacier, you can get to Rifugio Alimonta (2,580m / 8,465 ft) by heading around Cima Molveno and Due Gemelli, or you can head down to Rifugio Brentei (2,182m / 7,159 ft).

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Shuttle bus service (in summer, from late June to early September) from Madonna di Campiglio (Piazza Brenta Alta) to Vallesinella.

Getting there

To get to Rifugio Tuckett:    

  • from Vallesinella, which you can get to by taking trail no. 317 from the south of Madonna di Campiglio (approx. 2 hours);  
  • from Grostè Pass along the easy-to-intermediate trail no. 316 (approx. 1.5 hrs), which you can reach by way of the Grostè gondola lift. From here to Bocca di Tuckett, starting point of the via ferrata.

It is also possible to do the Bocchette Alte via ferrata in the opposite direction by starting from Rifugio Alimonta, which can be reached on foot from Vallesinella in about 3-4 hours.

Parking

Ample paid parking is available in Vallesinella, although access is restricted (check summer schedule and pricing online).

Coordinates

DD
46.191941, 10.882380
DMS
46°11'31.0"N 10°52'56.6"E
UTM
32T 645251 5117096
w3w 
///theoretical.agriculture.sundress
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

  • "La via delle Bocchette e le vie ferrate. Dolomiti di Brenta", by Pio Ferrari (Italian edition published by Rendena)
  • "La Via delle Bocchette e le Ferrate del Brenta", by Roberto Ciri (Italian edition published by Idea Montagna)

Book recommendations for this region:

show more

Recommended maps for this region:

show more

Equipment

Equipment needed:   

  • technical mountain clothing   
  • hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole   
  • via ferrata gear   
  • harness   
  • helmet   
  • gloves   
  • pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)   
  • a length of rope (recommended)

Questions & Answers

Ask the first question

Got questions regarding this content? Ask them here.


Reviews

5.0
(1)
Profile picture

Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
E difficult
Distance
5.6 km
Duration
6:00h
Ascent
1174 m
Descent
829 m
Point-to-point Multi-stage route Scenic Refreshment stops available Geological highlights Insider tip classic via ferrata

Statistics

  • 2D 3D
  • Contents
  • Show images Hide images
: h
 km
 m
 m
 m
 m
For changing the range of view, push the arrows together.