Choose a language
Community
Share
Bookmark
Plan a route here Copy route
Fitness
Alpine climbing

Way of the normal route

Alpine climbing · Brenta Group
Responsible for this content
APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena Verified partner 
  • Dolomiti di Brenta dal Lago Nero
    / Dolomiti di Brenta dal Lago Nero
    Photo: Luciano Gaudenzio - Altro Versante, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / La Via delle Normali - mappa generale
    Photo: 4Land - G.A. Gianni Canale, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Cima d'Ambièz
    Photo: G. A. Elio Orlandi, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Cima Tosa e Crozzon di Brenta
    Photo: G. A. Marco Maganzini, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Campanile Alto
    Photo: ApT Madonna di Campiglio Pinzolo Val Rendena, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Torre di Brenta
    Photo: G. A. Alessandro Beber, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Cima Brenta
    Photo: G. A. Gianni Canale, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Cima Falkner
    Photo: G. A. Marco Maganzini, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
  • / Cima Pietra Grande
    Photo: G. A. Elio Orlandi, APT Madonna di Campiglio, Pinzolo, Val Rendena
m 3600 3400 3200 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 km

Ring route, mixed with climbing and trekking, which connects 10 of the Brenta Dolomites peaks in 6 stages, linking existing and re-equipped normal routes.
difficult
35.4 km
60:00 h
5500 m
5500 m

The route unwinds through the Brenta Dolomites from south to north, reaching Cima d'Ambièz, Cima Tosa, Crozzon di Brenta, Campanile Alto, Torre di Brenta, Cima Brenta, Cima Falkner, Cima Grostè, Cima Pietra Grande and Cima Vagliana.

The normal climbing routes to these peaks, opened more than a century ago, have been re-equipped and made safe by the Trentino Alpine Guides College and their linking through paths has given life to La Via delle Normali, which offers an unforgettable experience for those who want to approach mountaineering in the stone heart of the Dolomites.

The aim of the project was to re-equip the existing abseil and anchoring belays and the protection nails, replacing them with stainless steel resin nails. New belays have been added to reduce the length of the pitches and, in the more exposed passages, new resin anchors have been added.90 years after the Via delle Bocchette, another Via has been opened which is destined for the same fame.

Author’s recommendation

The route should be carefully planned, taking into account the weather conditions and travel times for each itinerary.
Profile picture of Collegio Guide Alpine del Trentino
Author
Collegio Guide Alpine del Trentino
Updated: August 28, 2020

Difficulty
III+, 3b difficult
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
3142 m
Lowest point
2237 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition / cardinal direction
NESW
Belay stations
with bolts
Intermediate belay
sporadic bolts, climbing protection
Rope length
1 x 60 m
Number of quickdraws
6

Safety information

The Via delle Normali unwinds along alpine routes at an altitude of 3000 meters: it is always necessary to consider the objective dangers typical of the high mountains and mountaineering knowledge is essential (knowing how to move with dexterity on difficulties up to the upper III grade, knowing how to carry out ascending and descending belay rope maneuvers and occasionally knowing how to use trad gear).

Tips, hints and links

For all the organizational details and information needed to plan the crossing, we recommend that you consult the following websites:

Start

Pinzolo or San Lorenzo in Banale (2475 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.150546, 10.847599
DMS
46°09'02.0"N 10°50'51.4"E
UTM
32T 642674 5112433
w3w 
///sleeper.restyled.garden

Destination

Madonna di Campiglio

Turn-by-turn directions

Overall data of the Via delle Normali:

  • 6/7 days of crossing
  • 10 peaks of which 5 are 3000 meters
  • 8 refuges and 1 bivouac for overnight stays
  • max climbing difficulty III+
  • 5500 m overall ascent level difference in the crossing
  • 45 km overall length of the crossing (walking plus climbing)
  • 15 km climbing expanses only on the vie normali (normal routes)
  • 60 hours of mountain experience

There are two useful accesses for crossing the Brenta Group from south to north along the Via delle Normali and for covering all the stages: the XII Apostoli Refuge and the Agostini Refuge.

If departure is from the XII Apostoli Refuge, after the first night stay following the approach, stage no. 1 travel time increases by 2.30 h with an increment of 350 meters in ascent and 430 meters in descent. On the other hand, this choice allows you to stay each night in a different refuge and is easier returning from Madonna di Campiglio, the arrival point of the Via delle Normali. The same access is recommended for those who want to start the route from Cima Tosa (stage no. 2). Access with ski lifts: from Pinzolo, free parking at the Pinzolo-Prà Rodont lift departure point; take the cable car and chairlift up to Doss del Sabion, from here first follow trail sign no. 357 and then the 307 (total travel time: 3 hours). Check the season and opening hours of the lifts on www.campigliodolomiti.it. Access without ski lifts: from S. Antonio di Mavignola, take the crossroads for Val Brenta to the Prà de la Casa holiday home and park the car; first follow trail sign 324 and then 307 (total travel time: 4 hours).

Starting from the Agostini Refuge, you will stay overnight at this refuge for two nights (one on the approach and the other at the end of stage 1). Access from San Lorenzo in Banale, parking in Baesa: follow trail sign 325 (total travel time: 4 hours). Possibility of using the taxi-jeep service from the town of San Lorenzo or from Baesa to the Cacciatore refuge; from here follow trail sign 325 (travel time: 25 minutes by jeep and 1.30 hours of walking); for details on taxi-jeep transport: www.visitacomano.it Recommended period: from July to September

 

Stage 1: Cima d'Ambiéz (3,102 m): climb along the Via Normale from the south

Climb exposure: S

Descent exposure: N

Ascent level difference: from the Agostini refuge to the Cima d'Ambiéz 692 m; from the XII Apostoli refuge to the Cima d'Ambiéz 1045 m

Climb time of Via Normale from the south: 2-3 hours

Descent time of Via Normale from the north: 1.30-2 hours

Total stage: 7-9 hours (from the XII Apostoli refuge with return to the Agostini refuge: 9.30-11.30 hours)

Support points: Agostini refuge, XII Apostoli refuge

Type of route: rock

Difficulty: climb AD, max III; descent III

 

Stage no. 2: Cima Tosa (3,136 m): climb along the Via Migotti from the south; Crozzòn di Brenta (3,135 m): climb and descent along the Cresta Sud (South Crest)

Cima Tosa:

Climb exposure: S

Descent exposure: E-SE

Ascent level difference : from the Agostini refuge to Cima Tosa 726 m

Descent level difference: from Cima Tosa to the Tosa Pedrotti refuge 645 m

Climb time for Via Migotti from Bocca d'Ambiéz: 2-2.30 hours

Descent time for the Via Normale from east-south-east to the Brentari path: 1.30-2 hours

Total stage: 6-8 hours

Support points: Agostini refuge, Tosa Pedrotti refuge

Type of route: rock uphill - track, rocks and passages on rock downhill

Difficulty: PD, II+

Crozzon di Brenta variant:

Exposure: various

Ascent and descent level difference: 250 m

Variant time: 4-6 hours

Total stage: 10-14 hours

Support points: Agostini refuge, Tosa Pedrotti refuge, E. Castiglioni bivouac

Difficulty: AD, III

 

Stage no. 3: Campanile Alto (2,937 m): climb and descent along the North/North-East Via Normale (Normal Route); Torre di Brenta (3,014 m): climb from the south-east and north sides

Campanile Alto:

Climb and descent exposure: N-NE

Ascent level difference: from the Tosa Pedrotti refuge to Campanile Alto 446 m

Descent level difference: from Campanile Alto to the Alimonta refuge 357 m

Climb and descent time of Via Normale starting from the via delle Bocchette Centrali: 3-4 hours

Total time Campanile Alto: 5-7 hours

Total time Campanile Alto and Torre di Brenta: 10-12 hours

Support points: Tosa Pedrotti refuge, Alimonta refuge

Type of route: rockDifficulty: AD-, III

Torre di Brenta:

Exposure: various

Ascent level difference: from the Tosa Pedrotti refuge to Torre di Brenta 523 m

Descent level difference: from Torre di Brenta to the Alimonta refuge 434 m

Climb and descent time of Via Normale starting from the via delle Bocchette Centrali: 4-6 hours

Total time Torre di Brenta: 6-8 hours

Total time Campanile Alto and Torre di Brenta: 10-12 hours

Support points: Tosa Pedrotti refuge and Alimonta refuge

Type of route: track and rocks

Difficulty: AD-, III+

 

Stage no. 4: Cima Brenta (3,151 m): climb along the Via Normale from the south

Climb exposure: SW-S

Descent exposure: N-E

Ascent level difference: from the Alimonta refuge to Cima Brenta 250 m; from the Brentei refuge to Cima Brenta 970 m

Climb time of Via Normale from the south: 3-4 hours

Descent time of Via Normale from the north: 1.30-2 hours

Total stage: 7-9 hours

Support points: Brentei refuge, Alimonta refuge, Tuckett e Sella refuge

Type of route: track and rocks, passages on rock

Difficulty: climb PD+, III; descent III+

 

Stage no. 5: Cima Falkner (2,999 m): climb and descent along the Via Normale South-South East

Climb and descent exposure: S/SE

Ascent level difference: from the Tuckett e Sella refuge and Cima Falkner 727 m

Descent level difference: from Cima Falkner to the Grosè G. Graffer refuge 738 m

Climb and descent time of via Normale from the start of the Benini path: 1 hour

Total time Cima Falkner: 5-6 hours

Total time Cima Falkner and Cima Grostè: 8-9 hours

Support points: Tuckett e Sella refuge, Stoppani refuge, Grostè G. Graffer refuge

Type of route: track and rocks

Difficulty: F, I

 

Stage no. 6: Cima Pietra Grande (2,936 m) and Cima Vagliana (2,864 m): crossing along the crest from South to North (cresta dell'Oreste)

Crossing exposure: mainly SE

Ascent level difference: from the G. Graffer refuge to the Cima Pietra Grande 676 m

Descent level difference: from Cima Pietra Grande to the G. Graffer refuge 676 m

Crossing time: 5-6 hours

Total time: 8-9 hours

Support points: Stoppani refuge and G. Graffer refuge

Type of route: track and rocks

Difficulty: PD+ III

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

The access points of the Via delle Normali can be reached by public transport.

We recommend that you consult the following websites

For Pinzolo:

  1. from Trento: Trentino Trasporti services www.trentinotrasporti.it
  2. from Milan/Brescia: Autostradale services https://autostradale.it/ 
  3. from Brescia: Bus delle Dolomiti di Brenta services www.campigliodolomiti.it 
  4. from Liguria and Lombardy: Stat Turismo www.statturismo.com 

For San Lorenzo in Banale:

  1. from Trento: Trentino Trasporti services www.trentinotrasporti.it
  2. from Milan/Brescia: Autostradale services https://autostradale.it/ 
  3. from Liguria and Lombardy: Stat Turismo www.statturismo.com
  4. Flixbus: www.flixbus.it

Getting there

By car, toll booths: A4 Milan-Venice, Brescia Est exit, A22 Modena-Brennero, Trento Sud or S. Michele all'Adige exit

By plane: the following airports: Milan Linate, Milan Malpensa, Verona Villafranca V. Catullo, Bergamo Orio al Serio, Brescia Montichiari, Venice Marco Polo

By train: Trento railway station, Brescia railway station

Parking

Pinzolo: Funivie Pinzolo car park, piazzale San Vigilio.

San Lorenzo in Banale: from the center head in the direction of Val d'Ambièz to Baesa, free parking near the Ristoro Dolomiti.

Coordinates

DD
46.150546, 10.847599
DMS
46°09'02.0"N 10°50'51.4"E
UTM
32T 642674 5112433
w3w 
///sleeper.restyled.garden
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

For all details on each stage, we recommend purchasing the book "La Via delle Normali" by G.A. Gianni Canale - published by IdeaMontagna. Edition in Italian, English and German.

https://www.ideamontagna.it/librimontagna/libro-alpinismo-montagna.asp?cod=224

Book recommendations for this region:

show more

Recommended maps for this region:

show more

Equipment

Normal mountaineering equipment: harness, helmet, descender, 4 screw-lock carabiners, 5-6 quickdraws, 4 medium-small spring-loaded camming devices, nuts, lanyards and single 60 m rope. Via ferrata kit to safely tackle the various equipped paths or vie ferrate that you will meet along the Via delle Normali. Crampons and classic ice axe for the numerous hanging glaciers.

Questions & Answers

Ask the first question

Got questions regarding this content? Ask them here.


Reviews

Write your first review

Help others by being the first to add a review.

Profile picture

Photos from others


Difficulty
III+, 3b difficult
Distance
35.4 km
Duration
60:00h
Ascent
5500 m
Descent
5500 m
Loop Multi-stage route Scenic Refreshment stops available Geological highlights Botanical highlights Faunistic highlights Cableway ascent/descent Summit route Ridge traverse

Statistics

  • 2D 3D
  • Contents
  • Show images Hide images
: h
 km
 m
 m
 m
 m
For changing the range of view, push the arrows together.